Sholem Aleichem!!!

I am in Birobidzhan, and it is the land where dreams come true. We are being taken care of in the best of ways, the grocery store chain is called Brider, there is a Freylikh Cafe, a statue of Sholem Aleichem to which we have made great pilgramiges, a statue of Tevye... the symbol of the city is a menorah and a rainbow. How could this place be any better? Well, they could speak not-Russian or I could speak Russian, but we are getting by with the help of some new friends. My Yiddish is starting to recover from the 10 days in Germany which utterly, utterly killed it, Debi has recovered from the Frankfurt hot chocolate that made her deathly ill in Moscow, we've all recovered from not sleeping during the looooong journey from Frankfurt to here. It's only rained about half the 4 days we've been here, I have seen maybe 3 mosquitoes and they are not of a larger-than-normal size, they tell us the water is safe to drink and I had a cup of tea made from it this morning and still feel just fine.

I feel that I should be doing a better job of chronicling these things, as Debi certainly is, and Sarah appears to be, but my poor brain is all over the place running around in the happiest of circles. We got in at about 8 in the evening on Saturday, greeted by about 12 (or so it seemed, at least, it was probably more like 5) incredibly friendly, incredibly fast-talking Russians. One man spoke Hebrew, Debi and Sarah used him to make some communication possible, but mostly these very friendly women dragged us around showing us things, took us to the Brider, and put us in our rooms (we each have a whole room to ourselves! Mine's a triple, Sarah's is a double, and Debi has a suite with a bathroom of her own and everything) and we ate some bread and some chips and collapsed from exhaustion. Debi was awoken at 9:30 Sunday morning (although we thought it was 8:30- funny story about us not managing to figure out which time zone we're in) by the amazing Berl (who is a tiny Yiddish powerhouse) who was like "Good morning we, the leaders of the program, are here and we will come back in 5 hours to show you around and explain things" and then he left. Sarah and I awoke, we decided to wander towards the center of town, proceeded to be Amazed by the beauty of this city, got yelled at by a telephone salesman when we tried to use his internet, found a store called Tsimmes and some other exciting Yiddish things, and managed to order borscht and bread and juice at a real Russian cafe all by ourselves. Then we went back to the dorms because it was nearing the time that Berl and Co. claimed they would return. Tired, we all settled down to read, and promptly fell asleep for the next 6 hours. Fortunately or not, Berl and Co. failed to appear while we were asleep, and failed to appear for the rest of the night, during which we got creative enough to boil water and make a sad pot of pasta (this before we knew if we were allowed to drink the water or would suffer fiery stomach-death for it). Monday, the day the program was to begin, we awoke and gathered and had no idea what was to happen to us. And played cards and watched Russian tv (we have 2 channels, so we were alternating between a Soviet War Movie Marathon and some sort of herbal medicine talk show. It was surreal.) and waited. And waited. And hungered. And wondered what was to become of us. Finally, someone knocked on our door, and it was... a woman speaking Russian who apparently left something in Debi's freezer that she wanted to retrieve. So we waited some more, and then there was another knock! This time it was a Japanese woman named Tziziko, who is also in the program and living in the dorms with us. She had apparently talked to Berl earlier in the day, and informed us that we were to meet him and the rest of the program at 4 at the school. More excitingly, we found out that she speaks at least some Russian. With great gusto, we implored her to come to lunch with us, where we managed to get real food (at the Freylikh Cafe) and managed to navigate the Russian bus system, and got to the program at the appointed time. At the school, we found a room full of local students, which was most surprising and exciting. After we arrived, Leybl from Oxford showed up, and a couple from Ohio (one born in Israel, the other in South Africa) joined us later, and so I guess that makes us quite the international group. Yiddish classes began, and I am working with a German Yiddish professor, using a textbook written from Germans learning Yiddish, and this means that all my dreams have come true and that I should be doing my future Yiddish studying in Germany because it just makes So. Much. More. Sense. I have exactly 1 minute and 51 seconds of B-roll footage for the video, because I was a very very bad cinematographer and failed to charge my camera before Berl's amazing amazing walking tour yesterday, but it was also rainy and gross and that does not make for pretty video. Today it is sunny and we are doing a shmues-walk, so perhaps better footage will result.

We have 45 minutes left of our lunch break and have not yet eaten, so perhaps I will persuade Debi to leave now.